Monday, September 8, 2014

A house, a cemetery and a boy named Pepe

The date '1853' is inscribed above the portal of the cemetery chapel of Biñan, Laguna.

Mention Biñan, Laguna to heritage enthusiasts and what usually comes to mind is the sad saga of the Alberto House, which is associated with the family of Teodora Alonzo, the mother of national hero Jose Rizal. The young Rizal also lived in this town between 1869 and 1871 when he studied under a local maestro or teacher, Justiniano Aquino Cruz.
Just like any other youth, Pepe (the hero's nickname) wandered around town, swimming in the river and playing with his friends outdoors. Where else perhaps did his adventurous feet take him?

Not far away from the center of town is another structure reputedly from the days of Rizal which, oddly, has never really figured in heritage tours of Biñan: a Spanish-era cemetery chapel that is apparently still in use.

Inscribed with the date of 1853 above its entrance, the chapel is architecturally noteworthy. Simple but elegant columns adorned in between by faux arched niches rise up to a curved pediment. The pediment's outline is accentuated by segmented endings and a well-defined cornice.

The one disappointment, though, is the "refinishing" done on the entire structure, which seems to reek of possibly early 80s style: insipid brickwork-effect palitada and "whipped cream" garnishing on the moulding. 

One heritage advocate has written about another chapel in Biñan which, unknown to many, Rizal had frequented. Interestingly, the chapel is a fifteen-minute walk from the town proper, where the future hero stayed and which had a more proper place of worship. 

If the date on the facade indeed refers to its establishment, then it was already standing when the young Rizal came to town. Just like the other chapel, could he have walked here? Could he have witnessed a burial here?  And just like other boys who have grown up in provincial towns where cemetery "explorations" are part of childhood, could he have played here along with his classmates?

The probability makes the cemetery look all the more interesting--and significant as well.


The cemetery chapel's noteworthy facade.
A closer look at the date '1853'.

The 'refinishing' not only affected the facade but also the side walls. 


An outline of a niche on the facade.

Deteriorating cement plastering reveals the original adobe stonework.

The back of the pediment reveals the structure's antiquity.

New side entrances?

The back of the chapel.


The cemetery chapel as seen from its nondescript entrance.

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